Seriously My Last Questions About Choosing Amps?

Everyone Said The Mtx Thunder 2301 Is Better Than The Hifonics Brutus BXi606 For My 2 12'' Kenwood Tornados %26amp; My 1200 Watt 500 Watt Rms Power Acoustik Sub.People Told Me Runnin 2 Different Subs Is Bad Butt Im Usin 2 Different Amps Until I Get Matchin Subs I Found 2 Mtx Mono Amps %26amp; I Need 2 Know Which 1 Will B Da Best For My Subwoofers.


O Yea Which Eva Mtx Amp U Pick Will It B Able To Make My Subs B Heard B 4 U C Me? Please Answer.





Ok Lemme Shut Up Heres Da Amps.





300W RMS, Class D Monoblock Amplifier Thunder2301


Product Description:








Thunder TA Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier


RMS Power Rating:


4 ohms: 150 watts x 1 chan.


2 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.


Max power output: 300 watts x 1 chan.


MOSFET power supply


Wired remote bass level control included


Thermal and short LED indicators


Tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)


Adaptive Class D Technology: With MTX innovative approach, the amplifier鈥檚 switching energy is constantly changing and is moved away from FM radio frequency ranges as the amplifier鈥檚 load and output increases.


Thermal and short protection


StreetWires Connectors


Xtant Technologies Cooling (XTC) thermal-regulated, turbo-charged intercooler


Variable low-pass filter (at 80 or 120 Hz, 24 dB/octave)


CEA-2006 compliant amplifier


Dimensions: 12-11/16"L x 9-5/8"W x 2-1/2"H


4 or 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended. Contact us for information regarding a discount on a select amplifier kit when purchased together.


1-year Sonic Electronix warranty





Amplifier Specifications:





Amplifier Class D


Number of Channels 1 - Mono


RMS Power (4 ohms) 150 watts x 1 channel


RMS Power (2 ohms) 300 watts x 1 channel


RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable


Bridged RMS Power N/A


Peak Power Output N/A


Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms


Minimum Impedance Bridged Not Bridgeable ohms


THD at Rated RMS Power .5%


Speaker Level Inputs No


Preamp Outputs Yes - 1 pair


Built-in Crossover Low-pass (LP)


High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A


Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 80


Subsonic Filter N/A


Signal-to-Noise Ratio 73 dB


Channel Separation N/A


Bass Boost 0 - 12 dB


Bass/Gain Remote Yes


Fan Cooled Yes


Fuse Rating 20A x 2


Class D Monoblock Amplifier Thunder4501 Product Description:








Mono car subwoofer amplifier (Class D)


RMS Power Rating: 250 watts x 1 at 4 ohms


RMS Power Rating: 500 watts x 1 at 2 ohms


Wired EBC Remote Subwoofer Bass Level Control Included


Fan cooling with XTC thermal regulation technology


Prizm EFX customizable lighting accents


Variable remote bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)


Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)


MOSFET power supply and output stage


CEA-2006 compliant


Speaker-level inputs with Smart Engage


Fuse rating: 2 x 25 amps


Dimensions: 16-11/16" L x 9-5/8" W x 2-1/2" H


1-year Sonic Electronix warranty





Amplifier Specifications:





Amplifier Class D


Number of Channels 1 - Mono


RMS Power (4 ohms) 250 watts x 1 channel


RMS Power (2 ohms) 500 watts x 1 channel


RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable


Bridged RMS Power Not Bridgeable


Peak Power Output N/A


Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms


Minimum Impedance Bridged Not Bridgeable ohms


THD at Rated RMS Power 0.5%


Speaker Level Inputs Yes, with Smart Engage


Preamp Outputs No


Built-in Crossover Low-pass (LP)


High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A


Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 40 - 200 Hz


Subsonic Filter N/A


Signal-to-Noise Ratio 71 dB


Channel Separation N/A


Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB


Bass/Gain Remote Yes


Fan Cooled Yes


Fuse Rating 25A x 3|||OMG!! DUDE!!





Power is power!





It doesn't matter what amp as all you need is 500 Watt RMS X 2. That means you will need TWO of ANY of the 500 watt RSM amps you listed.





With that much power, you're obviously not looking for quality.





Different subs matter as they are what produce the SOUND!





What I WOULD worry about is powering that amp.





If your total system power is 1000 watts RMS or more, you will need to:





1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator


2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery


3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace (or add to) the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 2 AWG wire.





Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.





Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php鈥?/a>





You will need Microsoft Excel. If you don't have Excel, use this link http://www.box.net/shared/nkkw1dhk4g





A second battery is never a good idea as it's an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off.





A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing esle. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help. The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.





See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com